Jaipur: Camels, Chaos, and Con-Men
March 27, 2007
I think it was in a Lonely Planet book that I read how “India is an assault on the senses.” It absolutely rings true, and Jaipur is a prime example. The noise is overwhelming, the colors are spectacular, the smells range from wonderful to horrible, the food is wonderful….and any other sense that I'm missing is similarly challenged.
Jaipur is a full-blown city, and it’s not for everyone. There are two main areas of interest for the traveler. First is the Old City, an area of town that was built in the 1400’s and in which all the buildings are done in an orange color (though the city is given the misnomer of “The Pink City.”) Wandering around through the Old City needs to be done in small doses, as the noise, air pollution and general hassles can wear thin. However, I find it absolutely fascinating! Chaotic traffic in the streets features trishaws, busses, pedestrians, cows, and the occasional camel cart, and while others may find this to be torturous, I find it to be wildly entertaining. The landmark of the Old City is Hawa Mahal, a large façade where in days of yore the Majarajah’s wives could check-out what was happening on the streets, without being seen.
The second area of interest to the traveler is Amber Fort, which sits on top of a hill about 11km out of town. We had been to Amber in the past and loved it, but at this point Jaipur is on the main tourist trail, and we were staggered by the number of tourists there on this visit.
The Old City is a fantastic place to wander around. I love taking a cyclo (where the passenger sits in the back like King Farouk while a guy half your size pedals like hell) around town just to soak it all in. Walking the Old Town is more challenging, as the crowds and clamor can get old, but is still a must for any visitor. This is also a good place to do some shopping for things like inexpensive Indian-style shoes and clothing. I didn’t really intend on buying anything, but during a stroll down Bapu Bazaar we came across a shoe stall on a busy corner, and I took a look at sandals. And so the fun began!
By Indian standards I have an unimaginably huge foot (US size 12). I reached into the huge pile of sandals and pulled out a pair that I liked. Too small. I find another pair. Same problem. “No problem, we have big size,” says the guy. Someone is dispatched to wherever they keep the big shoes, and maybe two minutes later a runner appears with a huge burlap sack, and dumps the contents onto the sidewalk.
Now the shoe shop is on a busy corner, I’m sitting on a stool on the sidewalk, and the street traffic of cars, trishaws, pedestrians, bicycles and cows is streaming by as I try on shoes.
“Yes, very nice,” says the salesman as I try on a pair that are maybe an inch too small. “OK no problem, we have big size” as he flings three or four more pairs my way. In arrives another sack, and then a third, with dozens and dozens of shoes now strewn out on the sidewalk.
Another pair looks promising, and to my surprise they are both comfortable and big enough for my foot. “How much,” I ask.
“750 rupees,” he says, which is approaching $20. “Very good quality. Camel leather,” he adds.
After knocking around Asia for years, I’ve found that the best way to bargain is to make it clear that you like something, and to slowly walk away without naming a price, as invariably they’ll work themselves down to a lower price than you would have tried. So, I sadly shake my head, hand him back the shoes, and start to walk away. “No thanks, too much. Maybe I will come back later.”
“You tell me your price,” he says, as he shoves a calculator at me and blocks my exit.
I continue to slowly walk away.
“OK 600” he says.
I keep walking, while he displays good agility in cutting off my path.
“No thank you, maybe I will come back.”
“OK 450. Good quality, camel leather.”
“No thank you, maybe I will come back.”
“300, last price.”
“No thank you, maybe I will come back.”
I’m not just about off his sidewalk.
“OK 150” he says as I start to slip away.
“OK, 150,” I said, and the deal was done! Without me mentioning a price the whole time, he had worked his way down from 750 rupees (about $19) to 150 rupees (about $3.50)! Michelle got most of this on video, if you’re interested in seeing the clip on youtube.
I always try to enjoy the process and experience of bargaining. It’s the ultimate form of capitalism, and they’ll sell something to you for whatever price they can get out of you. I see some travelers get upset and flustered at the process, but there’s really no need for that. Be friendly, treat the locals with respect, and if you don’t like their price, then go somewhere else!
Next: Jaipur - Camels, cobras, chaos, clamor, and con-men, part II